Kornog 'Taouarc'h Eilvet 09' (46%, OB, Glann ar Mor, 2009) Three stars and a half A vatting of two bourbon barrels and one Sauternes cask, so it’s technically not a Sauternes finish at all. Colour: pale straw. Nose: spectacularly different from the Kilchoman, starting quite extravagantly, on loads of isoamyl acetate, that is to say notes of ripe pears, bananas and pineapples, coming most probably from the Sauternes cask as all ‘bourbon’ samples of Glann ar Mor that I could try so far were lacking such relatively heady notes. What’s also quite funny is that the peat then takes over but very gradually, as if someone was slowly pushing a cursor towards the much expected coastal and smoky aromas. It’s a kind of peat that’s rather more refined and mature than Kilchoman’s but it’s true that Brittany’s climate is rather hotter than Islays – although it’s not Bangalore or Taiwan, far from that – which suggests that Kornog or Glann ar More will mature faster. Anyway, it’s an extremely entertaining nose, probably quite ‘Sauternised’ but absolutely not winey nor vinous. Mouth: this is much creamier and oilier than the Kilchoman, punchier and smoother at the same time, starting on pretty much the same fruity notes as on the nose (but it’s a little easier on the bananas and heavier on the apricots). A peatiness that’s clear and loud but not overpowering kicks in faster than on the nose, the whole mingling perfectly well as such young age. Notes of bubblegum and strawberries in the background as well as a very faint rubbery bitterness that balances the big fruity notes. Again, rather spectacular. Finish: long, with many more spices now. Maybe a little yellow curry, notes of cashew paste, sesame oil… Comments: an unusual whisky, very far from the Kilchoman (whilst I had thought they might have been sort of similar – silly me). It’s not easy to compare it as it’s so singular with these exuberant Sauternes notes that are rather different from a finishing’s, and maybe I liked the single cask that was issued last year a little better (call me conserva tive if you like), but it’s still impressive young single malt whisky. And already sold out or so it seems – no wonder. SGP:546 February 10, 2010 - 84 points.